Lyon, France
Craving big city France, today we took the time to drive 2:45 hours to visit Lyon. (Paris, a city we explored in 2012, is a 7-hr drive). There is so much to do in Lyon; one day does not do it justice. Known for its historical and architectural landmarks, Lyon also has a reputation as France's capital of gastronomy. In addition to its Roman history, its more recent historical importance is due to its production of silk.
Lyon, founded by the Romans in 43 BC, was the capital of Gaul
Miniature reproduction of the Jacquard looms that the canuts (Lyonnais silk workers) used during the 19th century
We started high up on Fourviere Hill at the majestic Basilique de Fourviere. The cathedral, built in the late 1800's, is richly decorated with mosaics, and its esplanade offers a panoramic view of the city below. Next, rather than take the funicular, we walked down 454 stairs (plus pathways) to Vieux Lyon, the medieval district.
A fascinating, unique feature found in Vieux Lyon are the hidden, narrow passageways called traboules. They were created centuries ago when most streets ran parallel with the river and few ran perpendicular. The traboules allowed people to quickly fetch water from the river, and craftsmen and traders to transport goods (particularly silk). Now, although they pass through private residences, many are open to the public due to an agreement with the city. Exploring them is like a game. From the outside, along the cobbled streets, it is impossible for an unknowing visitor to identify a traboule because they are hidden behind regular, closed doors. When you find one, walk through its dark tunnel to the brightly colored courtyard with stairs that wind beautifully up like a tower. Continue through the hallway, and pop out on the other side. We spent about an hour playing this game, pushing on doors to see if they would open, and pressing buttons hoping the doors would unlock. We only came across two that were clearly marked with plaques so have no idea how many we entered that were truly private property.
This traboule between 27, Rue Saint-Jean and 6, Rue des Trois Maries is marked by a plaque
I loved the brightly colored buildings of the old area. Many have beautiful, medieval staircases.
Quaint Rue St. Jean in Vieux Lyon has many traditional "bouchons" where you can indulge in the famous regional cuisine
However, when we passed around to its other side, we discovered another fascinating feature Lyon has to offer ... over 150 painted murals around the city.
This entire 800-square-meter surface is a mural titled "Fresque des Lyonnais" featuring 31 famous people from Lyon, including chef Paul Bocuse, who has held the highest rating of three Michelin stars for more than 40 years.
Kate blends right in to the life-size mural
Place Bellecour is one of the largest open squares in Europe
Kate took a direct hit from a well-aiming pigeon. It was nothing a little "Brandy candy" couldn't fix ... her Lyon souvenir was a "New York" t-shirt.
We would have continued exploring Lyon longer but didn't have the best weather. The unreliable weather app's forecast was for possible rain at 4:00 pm. Well, it felt like 4:00 all day long - it was only dry for about an hour!
Logistics:
- To avoid a 20 euro parking fee, we parked for free along the street next to Basilique de Fourviere.
- Consider a visit to the roof of the basilica!
- For information and maps to the traboules, go to www.lyontraboules.net, or ask at the Visitor's Center.
- The traboules are open to the public in the morning until ~11am. To unlock the door, press the button on the panel and push the door open.
