We started with the Wednesday market in St. Remy. (Again, there are MANY in France, so get the right one: St. Remy de Provence.) I didn't notice any reason to visit St. Remy other than its market, our biggest so far, but we have only been to the markets in Aix. It had all the basics, repeated booth after booth: soap, cheese, linens, pottery, fruit & vegetables, nougats, clothing, jewelry, olives, straw bags. We bought olive wood, linens, soap, bread and a meringue.
Kate bought a very cute straw bag
Chateau des Baux-de-Provence is very close to St. Remy.
Chateau des Baux-de-Provence
As usual, the fortress sits high on a hill (with sweeping views) protecting a small town.
The chateau has a "Medievales des Baux" schedule (weekends, holidays and school breaks) with catapult shootings, Medieval duels, and crossbow shootings. We started with the launching of the trebuchet - our third one this trip. This one surprised us by launching a huge ball filled with water!
We are still fascinated by trebuchet shows
Climbing around the chateau was an adventure. (It would make for a fantastic game of hide and seek!) It is in complete ruin, and has not been restored.
The chateau has many levels, boulders, and steep, uneven, highly eroded steps.
My sandals were a poor shoe choice.
The steep steps were so badly eroded that they had a warning sign
The "excellent" audio guide brings to life the ruins; however, struggling to follow it we finally got bored. We had to hunt for the signs to tell us which number to listen to (a numbered map would have been useful) and then we had trouble following along with what it was describing.
The admission includes an audio guide
At the end of the castle circuit, I dragged Chris down to the archery display. He had no interest in "shooting suction cups intended for three year olds". We waited in a short line for the highlight of his day: shooting a crossbow with real arrows (technically called a bolt)!
Kate was given a small crossbow and directed to a nearby target.
The guy pulled out the big daddy crossbow when Chris stepped up.
You need to press your nose and lips to the crossbow.
They all came pretty close to hitting the bullseye; Greg's was the closest.
Next we found a corral of different medieval games.
They knew how to play this medieval game from an episode of Survivor
By 1:00 pm the direct sun and heat were too much
We shopped and had lunch in the small town of Les Baux
The entrance to Les Baux has a free public restroom. As typical, the urinals are in plain sight. Next to the urinals were four stalls: 1 in use and 3 sealed shut. On the wall the sign posted in 3 different languages stated that the stall is disinfected after every use, and you had 15 minutes to do your business. It was rather entertaining that the Asian ladies in front of us did not read the sign. Without waiting, the lady entered the stall - followed a moment later with the sounds of rushing water and screaming. I was next and intelligently let the door close for its cleaning cycle. The Asian behind me freaked out, urgently pointing from her watch to the stall for me to go in. I think she was rather impatiently implying that we could get as many people in and out for 15 minutes. I am not sure what her rush was, but to please her, I went in. As the toilet seat automatically started to rise, I knew I was about to get more than I bargained for! At the same moment I was jumping out, I could hear the water gushing in. Asian lady was not happy with me.
What we did next I would highly recommend - we went down the road to Carrieres le Lumieres. Inside a huge rock quarry, a multimedia show projects art images onto the surface of the rock walls and floor. The gigantic images orchestrated with music completely immersed us. What made the experience special for us was the theme of this season's exhibit: "Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael - Giants of the Renaissance." We were surrounded by the incredible artwork we had just seen in the Vatican and Florence! I could have stayed here longer to watch the show again from a different viewpoint.
Carrieres le Lumieres is a rock quarry
Huge images are displayed on the walls and floor
The Carrieres le Lumieres media show is extraordinary!
On the way home, we finally ate the meringue. Kate had spotted one in Rome, and we hadn't gotten to trying them yet. Crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside, it was sweet like a freeze-dried marshmallow. Thumbs up for Kate! I sat in the front seat relishing our opportunity to be together, explore places, and taste new things.
Kate eating the meringue
I was too lazy to make dinner so quick and easy pizza sounded appealing. There are at least three Pizza Capri stands around Aix's city center. It is popular although its stacks of ready pizza do not look appetizing. They heat up a slice (~2.20 euro) or make a fresh whole pizza (~9.00 euro). Greg ordered one combo chorizo (pepperoni) and champignon (mushroom) pizza. He suspected something wasn't right when the waitress gave him the total - twice the amount he expected. I clarified our order with the waitress: just one pizza with both chorizo and champignons. "Oui." We walked away with two, single-topping pizzas. Damn it, I hate not speaking the language!!
Pizza Capri stand in Aix-en-Provence
Logistics:
- Parking in St. Remy de Provence (on market day) - the street parking was already full when we got there right before 9:00 am. We followed the signs to the Office de Tourisme for its parking. On the way, we snagged a free spot on the street.
- When we left at 10:30 am, all the parking appeared to be gone. People were parking outside of the town, and walking in.
- Parking immediately around Les Baux de Provence is a flat rate of 5 euros. If you don't mind a 10 minute walk, parking is free.
- The nice lady at the castle saved us 9 euros by offering a combo ticket for the chateau + cave show = 49 euros. Adults 17.50, kids (to 17 yrs) 14.00 euros; 2nd child free.
- Go early. The heat on top of the hilltop was tolerable until 1:00 pm, and then it became unbearable in the direct sun.
- Once you are inside the fortress, you can stay as long as you like and watch the sunset. They have several picnic tables.
- Les Baux de Provence, though small, has many food options ranging from snacks and drinks starting at ~3 euros to full course meals for 37 euros.
- Parking at Carrieres le Lumieres is free. By the time we got there at 2:00 pm, everything nearby was taken. Since we had parked on the side of Les Baux closest to Carrieres le Lumieres, we should have just stayed in the same parking spot and walked - I had no idea they were so close, and connected by a sidewalk.
- The Carrieres le Lumieres show cycles every 40 minutes. It is not a timed entrance; you can enter it during a show, and stay for as long as you like.
- Since it was hot outside, the cave felt like air conditioning. After a while it turned to goose bumps, so consider bringing long sleeves.
- I would recommend Pizza Capri for its price and convenience. We don't like the swiss "emmental" cheese they use so pay extra for mozzarella. Of the three locations in the pedestrian area, we like the one in Place Richelme.
