Canoe Dordogne in La Roque-Gageac
On Friday mornings La Roque-Gageac has a small outdoor market (marche) with about 20 booths: fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, roasted chicken, walnut goods (local product), foie gras, and fabrics. While we waited for our 11am bus ride up the river, we picked up some sweet strawberries and a tablecloth (to use as a picnic blanket).
The canoe company drove us to Carsac, where we chose to start our adventure. It is a good thing they told us we had all day because we took our time and didn't finish the 16-km route until 5pm. It felt like we were rowing almost the entire time so I am perplexed at how everyone passed us, even the older folks!
Jeremy and Chris had single kayaks
Jeremy and Chris made rowing look effortless, and spent most of the time kicking back, enjoying the refreshing ride. The canoe seemed to be more work, which was especially noticeable when the current dissipated.
Greg and I shared a canoe with Kate. We couldn't stop making crocodile jokes.
We stopped at a beach to cool down in the water just after Chateau de Montfort.
The best view of Chateau de Montfort is looking back after you pass it.
They are all trying to figure out how to plunge into the cold water.
I counted down for Chris and Jeremy, who together planked backwards into the water.
Kate and Greg had their own method of getting in - Kate squatted and Greg sat, slowly inching deeper. Both made hilarious faces. Both have forbidden me to post pictures. I didn't go in.
In the heat with no access to ice, a picnic was really not an option for us. We stopped for a relaxing lunch at the river-side snack bar in Vitrac. Considering this was one of the only food stops, it had a surprising variety of options at fair prices.
I swear after Vitrac, the current disappeared and the wind picked up - or maybe the heat and our full bellies slowed us down. No current meant more bugs. We looked for another swimming beach - requiring slightly moving water and shade.
The consensus was that kayaking was a great way to spend our day. In hindsight, we didn't get to swim enough. When you ask Chris and Jeremy about it, together they will chime in their lesson of the day: Don't listen to mom when she says you don't need sunscreen on your legs! Yeah, whatever ... they were sunbathing all day. The canoe folk were working and didn't have time to get burned!
For dinner we drove to Sarlat. Its description won me over: "a beautiful town carved from sandstone with winding cobbled streets and passageways that are perfect to explore on foot." Upon arriving, I was afraid we had the wrong town. We parked at the pedestrian area which at first glance is rather plain. It wasn't until we turned down one of the alleys that I fell in love. It really was beautiful! I wished the stores weren't closed and we had more time there; Greg and I are hoping our next town is more like this!
Sarlat
Jeremy asked to have hamburgers or hot dogs to celebrate the Fourth of July so when I saw that the #1 restaurant on tripadvisor was a hamburger joint, I knew I had to look no further (even though it was only July 3). Les Tontons - the burgers, the owner, and the cook - are likely the other reason we enjoyed Sarlat so much! When we walked up, we discovered there were only three tiny - and taken - bar tables to eat on. We were in no hurry, but we were not next in line. I offered to come back but the owner said he would be out of patties. He kept us "fresh" with a supply of cold drinks until our table and food were ready. And then he promptly ran out of his daily supply of fresh meat! Our burgers, fries, and assortment of special sauces are the best in France. If not, then combination of the burgers, the owner and cook surely make it so!
"Fromage!" "Good burger for French?" -- Les Tontons owner and cook
Logistics:
- Canoe down the Dordogne River www.canoesdordogne.fr
- Rental rates are per person and charged by the distance you go. We paid 19 euro (adults) to go from Carsac to La Roque-Gageac.
- The rate included all gear (life jacket, paddle, and waterproof container) and transportation. "Closed shoes" (not flip flops) are required.
