My notes for today say:
4:00 am leave hotel to find spot. Remember this is why you are here.
So why did I ignore them?
I chose the start line at Santo Domingo as our viewing spot because it has a high view point and is one of the most dangerous parts of the course. Here the bulls sprint out of their pen and run very closely together.
I was honestly surprised when we arrived at 5:15 am to find every single spot along the railing taken. The streets were still teeming with festive - drunk - people, and many had obviously settled here for the night - several were asleep. With glimpses of front row spots (particularly when people started standing up) we spent the next 2 hours and 45 minutes jockeying to maintain our claim. We weren't very good at it. Twice people stepped right in front of Kate as if she were invisible. We were respectful and not pushy, and therefore squeezed out. Our front row hopes were gone. There is no view for the second row - except via Greg's iPhone held high overhead.
At 5:15 am all the viewing spots at Santo Domingo were gone - for a race that doesn't begin until 8:00 am!
If you are along the railing at Santo Domingo, the high view point is a great place to watch the bull run!
The bull run had a highly emotional prelude when a weeping man sang to the patron saint San Fermin. It was followed with every runner gathered with their rolled newspapers held high in the air chanting for San Fermin's blessing. The chant was repeated 3 times leading up to the start.
The runners raise their rolled newspapers and chant to San Fermin:
We ask San Fermin,
being our patron saint,
to guide us in the bull run
and give us his blessing.
(Of course it is chanted in Spanish. If you can't remember what you are supposed to say, there are people holding up signs with the words.)
Look at all the runners! They all gather at the start for the chant, and then quickly disperse to their chosen spots.
(Technically they are forced to the start by the police, who are clearing people off the half-mile course. They can spread out again before it begins.)
A series of 4 rockets go off during the run, beginning at 8:00 am with the start of the race: 1) the Bulls have been released 2) the Bulls are on the street 3) the Bulls arrived to the arena and 4) the Bulls are secure in their pens.
The starting line. A few of the Pastores - bull shepherds who run behind the bulls to make sure they continue running - posing for a quick photograph. The bulls come raging from their corrals, around the corner to the right.
The entire run is 3 minutes long - from the start to ending at the arena, where they fight to their death later that night. Because of how the course winds through the city, no matter where you are you are lucky to catch at most a very exciting 10 seconds of viewing action. Don't blink!
Video of the bulls running past us
The run is on!
Running right in front of the bulls is great excitement, and a good way to get gored and trampled! The idea is to race ahead of and alongside the bulls. It is impossible to outrun the bulls.
And as quickly as that, it is over! No one was trampled or gored in front of us, but the medics ran to help a runner laying on the ground.
The mansos are castrated steers which help guide the bulls but are not aggressive. They are released shortly after to "sweep up" the bulls. The spectators dispersed so quickly, Kate, Chris and Greg had a great view of these bulls! Their slow trot and clanging bells humorously contrast the raging bulls!
The all-night partiers offer job security for the trash collectors.
Immediately after the race, we left Pamplona for our next destination. There was a DUI checkpoint at the toll station on our way out of Pamplona at 9:00 am. Greg was 0.0.
To break up the drive "home" we stopped at a beach resort town near Barcelona called Lloret de Mar - an addition we made to the itinerary a couple of days ago. I don't know what Spain coastal towns are like but in my opinion, a generous description of Lloret de Mar is that it is a mid-range beach resort. It is popular with many families and Eastern Europeans vacationing here. Every hotel looks tired. Lloret de Mar was a perfect one night stopover but I wouldn't want to vacation here.
Lloret de Mar, Spain
Lloret de Mar, looking the opposite direction
Greg insisted on a spot right next to this old, fat, bald man - I don't know why!
What I loved most about Lloret de Mar was the sea - it was beautifully clear like a swimming pool, with a refreshing temperature.
The fine pebbles that make up Lloret de Mar's beach are much better than sand!
Rosemar Garden Resort's hotel closes early at 7:00 pm.
Thoughts on Spain:
- I liked Spain. Our original plan was to spend more time there but it got cut when the Aix apartment required a Saturday to Saturday rental period. I don't know what the next 3 weeks in France hold for us but right now I would gladly trade an entire week to explore other parts of Spain.
- The language put me at ease. I can talk to them! (This is a huge exaggeration. I pretend.)
- There is a laid-back, easy-going feel here.
- It is cheaper than France.
- The people are warm, nice and welcoming, and not judgmental, rude or pushy.
- Spaniards drive differently than the rest of Europe. They drive in the left lane rather than reserving it for passing only.
- As soon as we left, Kate asked to go back again.
Logistics:
- I would have no problem sleeping on the filthy, hard ground to claim a spot at Santo Domingo but didn't think it was a proper decision for our family. If you go, get there early or reserve a balcony ($60-200 per person). Another option is to buy one of the ample seats in the arena (~$40 each) where the race ends (and miss the actual running). The only other option is to climb on top of a barricade but these spots are hard to come by.
The course is lined with mostly buildings so the only other street view is behind the double-barricade. You can't be near the first barricade, or between them, but you can sit on top of the second one.
- On our way to Pamplona, through the Pyrenees foothills along the Camino de Santiago, there are no tolls. On the highway to Lloret de Mar we paid a little over 50 euro to drive 5 hours. Our chip and pin card (that works in France) didn't work at the Spain tollbooths; the chip and sign card (that doesn't work in France) did.
- If Lloret de Mar is the best Spain has to offer, and you have kids, then come here and stay at Rosamar Garden Resort. It has 4 pools, watersides, and a good price. Our last minute rate was 181 euros. We were issued resort wristbands (they had "security" checking at the front door). They have 4 dining plans: 1) breakfast 2) half-board (includes dinner) 3) full-board (all meals, no drinks) and 4) all-inclusive. We chose half-board which was a total of 8 euro more than the base price - a killer deal for the 4-person buffet dinner it included.
- The sign at the hotel said not to drink tap water.
