Thursday, June 29, 2017

Leutasch Gorge, Kolbensattel Alpine Slide, Oberammergau and Linderhof Palace


Today's plans were ambitious, as there is plenty to do in the Oberammergau area.  Albeit exhausting, it was an awesome day!

The drive to Mittenwald, with views of Alpine peaks, is gorgeous

We started 1 1/2 hours away from Munich near the small town of Mittenwald at "Leutaschklamm" - the Leutasch Spirit Gorge that runs from Austria to Germany.  I knew we could park in the gorge's parking lot in Austria but also Mittenwald's tennis club or at the chapel on the road to the Austrian side of the gorge. 

Crossing into Austria to get to Leutasch Gorge

The "Hollkapelle" (chapel) was a hut with a pullout that maybe could fit 3 small cars

The gorge trail is a part of the Way of St. James!

I pieced together the little info I could find (in English) on the gorge. There's a very short trail (1/8th mile) into the gorge for €3, walking close to the water. There are also 2 loops high above the water which I read are "an easy hike for anyone."  Connecting the 2 trails is a cool panorama bridge high over the gorge.  We only did the blue route to get to the lower gorge because we didn't have a lot of time. It's a loop but half of it was closed so we doubled-back on the same path - for a total of 2.3 miles. From what I read, the entire 2 loops would take 2 hours and half would be 50 minutes ... but we took a leisurely pace, enjoying the walk and views - which we had entirely to ourselves - and spent almost 2 hours on just half, which included picking up the pace at the end when it started to rain. Ironically the trail got much more crowded when it started raining. 

The start of the blue "Goblin Trail" is at the entrance to the short trail leading to the gorge's waterfall (Wasserfallsteig) 

Map of Leutascher Gorge trails

A metal pathway follows high above the gorge's river

Some points are suspended 75 meters above the river

Walking along the metal pathway clinging to the cliff

Panoramic Bridge with amazing views

The Panoramic Bridge is super high up!  Jeremy confidently crossed the bridge, and then breathed a sigh of relief, "Whew," holding his heart; he does not like heights.

From the Mittenwald Gorge Kiosk you can enter the short trail along gorge's river

We were the only ones on the trail

When the trail started going up, Kate asked, "Does it all go up?"   And then on our way back - along the exact same route  - she asked again, "Is it all up?"  Yup, uphill both ways!!  She's lucky she has a nice brother to carry her.

Next we drove to Oberammergau to go on the alpine slide. I would've skipped it in the rain, but the rain stopped by the time we got there. The entrance to the parking lot is not well-marked or obvious so we passed it on the first try; it is out the back of the town. There are different activities at the top of the mountain, so you can piece together what you want to do - at a minimum you have to buy a ticket up the chairlift. The lift plus one alpine slide ride down the mountain cost a total of €12.50 per person. 

Kate was the only one expressing excitement to go on the coaster.  But getting closer, and seeing it, she kept repeating: we don't have to go. Then afterwards, she said: we can go again!


Taking the chairlift up to the top of the mountain

The chairtlift takes you high above the town of Oberammergau

Getting on the alpine slide

The slide whips you down the mountain

The alpine slide starts at the top of the mountain and goes all the way down - for a total of 8,530 feet.  It was super fun ... totally awesome!!  The chairlift took us high up over the town. At the top, the guy said it is safe to go down without brakes - so we went all out. It throws you around the turns, which is a little frightening and a lot exhilarating!  I caught up with Chris because he "had to go slow to make a video."

If you haven't heard of Oberammergau, it is a small, whimsical Bavarian town famous for its performance of the Passion Play every 10 years for the last 400 years. It's also known for its wood carvings and the frescoes ("air paintings") on the buildings. 


Oberammergau is a whimsical, quaint town

Oberammergau is known for its stunning "Luftmalerei" - air paintings which show the owner's status and wealth

We bought a cuckoo clock here.  We found the one we wanted on Munich's main shopping street and then ordered it here (out of a catalog) for 250 euro less

One of Kate's trip requests was to try "spaghettieis" in Germany, and we found it here 

Our last stop of the day was at one of crazy King Ludwig II's castles - Linderhof Palace. It is the only castle he ever saw finished in his lifetime.  I liked the small castle because it was quite ornate, with every inch covered in beautiful, intricate, wealthy materials.  (You are not supposed to miss its grotto but our guide told us it is closed for the next 6 years!)


Crazy King Ludwig's Linderhof Palace

Palace gardens inspired by Versailles - with fountains running every 30 minutes

Multiple conversations today about moving to Europe. Jeremy warned me to be careful about taking them places - I might end up with grandkids in other countries (than me); he said he could move to Germany in a heartbeat. 

Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Wandering around Munich


We returned to Munich with the idea to use it as a home base to enjoy the city and explore surrounding activities. The only "plan" for today was to wander around Munich eating, drinking and shopping - while Chris repeated the BMW plant tour with Craig and Reene. We walked through the Marienplatz to the Viktualienmarkt and then on to the English Garden. It was wonderful to walk around on such a beautiful summer day - the general consensus is that Munich is a happy city.

The Neues Rathaus in the Marienplatz

In Viktualienmarkt we coincidentally ran into "Frau", the kids' German teacher, who is on a whirlwind trip through Germany with 7 students

The Maypole in the center of the Viktualienmarkt, the food market, displays the trades and crafts of this part of Munich

Each day the Viktualienmarkt's beer garden sells a different brewery's beer (one of these seven)

Jeremy couldn't decide which size to get - so he got both

Enjoying the Viktualienmarkt's biergarten

Kate's make-shift mask to protect her from the second-hand smoke

The English Garden, larger than New York's Central Park, is beautiful!  We laughed and laughed over the "scenery" - the park is one of the six Urban Naked Zones, and the nudists aren't remotely prude about standing up front and center

River surfing on the Eisbach on the edge of the English Garden


When we travel I love to find a public place to sit and relax for a bit

For dinner we walked to Steinheil 16 for huge platters of schnitzel (only 11 euros each) - so big that we should have only ordered two servings for the 5 of us, and in order to reheat the leftovers, they had to be cut to fit into the microwave. 


Schnitzel from Steinheil 16 in Munich

Monday, June 26, 2017

Nuremberg


Today we got up early to beat traffic for a normal four hour drive to Nuremberg, but instead were delayed an extra  2.5 hours due to construction and accidents.  It was pretty lousy. 

We were literally parked on the autobahn for over 30 minutes, hugging the center barrier so an emergency vehicle could squeeze through

Arriving at Nuremberg was worth any amount of difficulty - what a beautiful romantic German city!  Regarded as the "most German" of all cities in Germany, it was the target of allied bombings, which destroyed 90% of the medieval center in one hour. It is well known for many things: the Nuremberg Trials, Germany's largest Christmas market, the raceway, etc. The town was once surrounded by nearly three miles of wall, and 90% still survives. 

The river-spanning Holy Ghost Hospital was donated by the city's richest resident to help the poor

The Hauptmarkt - Main Market Square - hosts Germany's largest Christmas market

Spinning the fountain's gold ring three times will bring you good luck
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We couldn't visit Nuremberg without trying their specialty sausage.  For a traditional Nuremberg sausage, size does matter; they can be no bigger than 3.5 inches  Since the 1400s they have been served on a pewter plate in combinations of 6, 8, 10, or 12.

The half-timbered houses on Weissgerbergasse survived the war
The Kettensteg is the oldest iron footbridge on the continent

Walking across the Kettensteg

Beautiful view of Nuremberg from the Kettensteg

The Nazi Documentation Center is located in Nuremberg on Hitler's Party Rally Grounds. The Rally Grounds were designed to impress and intimidate - a combination of monumental and gigantic - as a demonstration of power.  They held 400,000 spectators annually for the elaborate staged rallies that lasted about 7 days. 2 million people flooded Nuremberg during the event. The museum tells the history, motivation and methods that allowed Hitler to get into power and push his horrific plans. It is very well done, and if limited in time, should be chosen over Berlin's Topography of Terror. The signs are in German but everything is provided on the English audio guide.

Documentation Center

The Zeppelin grandstand in 1934

The Zeppelin Grandstand in 2017 - one of the only remaining structures from the Rally Grounds

Zeppelin Field is so immense - there was no chance my lens could capture it

We continued to our final destination - Munich - where we are staying for the next  4 nights in a 3-bedroom apartment near the train station. 


Realizing the parking plan was kaput ... the parking at the apartment was a lift system and our car was too tall to fit