Day 60 - Lyon, France

Lyon, France

Craving big city France, today we took the time to drive 2:45 hours to visit Lyon.  (Paris, a city we explored in 2012, is a 7-hr drive).  There is so much to do in Lyon; one day does not do it justice.  Known for its historical and architectural landmarks, Lyon also has a reputation as France's capital of gastronomy.  In addition to its Roman history, its more recent historical importance is due to its production of silk.

Lyon, founded by the Romans in 43 BC, was the capital of Gaul

Miniature reproduction of the Jacquard looms that the canuts (Lyonnais silk workers) used during the 19th century

We started high up on Fourviere Hill at the majestic Basilique de Fourviere.  The cathedral, built in the late 1800's, is richly decorated with mosaics, and its esplanade offers a panoramic view of the city below.  Next, rather than take the funicular, we walked down 454 stairs (plus pathways) to Vieux Lyon, the medieval district.

A fascinating, unique feature found in Vieux Lyon are the hidden, narrow passageways called traboules.  They were created centuries ago when most streets ran parallel with the river and few ran perpendicular.  The traboules allowed people to quickly fetch water from the river, and craftsmen and traders to transport goods (particularly silk).  Now, although they pass through private residences, many are open to the public due to an agreement with the city.  Exploring them is like a game.  From the outside, along the cobbled streets, it is impossible for an unknowing visitor to identify a traboule because they are hidden behind regular, closed doors.  When you find one, walk through its dark tunnel to the brightly colored courtyard with stairs that wind beautifully up like a tower.  Continue through the hallway, and pop out on the other side.  We spent about an hour playing this game, pushing on doors to see if they would open, and pressing buttons hoping the doors would unlock.  We only came across two that were clearly marked with plaques so have no idea how many we entered that were truly private property.

This traboule between 27, Rue Saint-Jean and 6, Rue des Trois Maries is marked by a plaque

I loved the brightly colored buildings of the old area.  Many have beautiful, medieval staircases.

Quaint Rue St. Jean in Vieux Lyon has many traditional "bouchons" where you can indulge in the famous regional cuisine

Along Quai Saint Vincent, we came across this normal building.

However, when we passed around to its other side, we discovered another fascinating feature Lyon has to offer ... over 150 painted murals around the city.

This entire 800-square-meter surface is a mural titled "Fresque des Lyonnais" featuring 31 famous people from Lyon, including chef Paul Bocuse, who has held the highest rating of three Michelin stars for more than 40 years.

Kate blends right in to the life-size mural

Place Bellecour is one of the largest open squares in Europe

Kate took a direct hit from a well-aiming pigeon.  It was nothing a little "Brandy candy" couldn't fix ... her Lyon souvenir was a "New York" t-shirt.

Chris enjoyed the Musee Miniature et Cinema.  As the city where the first motion picture was created (by the Lumiere bothers), it seems appropriate for Lyon to house this museum.  It features interesting details about special effects techniques, a collection of real movie props, and impressive miniature scenes.

We would have continued exploring Lyon longer but didn't have the best weather.  The unreliable weather app's forecast was for possible rain at 4:00 pm.  Well, it felt like 4:00 all day long - it was only dry for about an hour!

Logistics:
- To avoid a 20 euro parking fee, we parked for free along the street next to Basilique de Fourviere.
- Consider a visit to the roof of the basilica!
- For information and maps to the traboules, go to www.lyontraboules.net, or ask at the Visitor's Center.
- The traboules are open to the public in the morning until ~11am.  To unlock the door, press the button on the panel and push the door open.

Day 58 - Avignon, Pont du Gard, Nimes

Avignon

Avignon and Pont du Gard are the headliners of Provence.  So why did we save them for last?  Because we chose to stay away from the Festival d'Avignon.  The performing arts festival is held for three weeks every July where there are no less than 40 various projects plus daily workshops, debates and discussions regarding theater, dance, music and fine arts.  Whether or not we should visit Avignon while it is bustling with exuberance is something I went back and forth on, and avoiding it turned out to be a good decision for us.

The entire city is transformed during the Festival d'Avignon, including closing off access to traffic

  

We arrived to a quiet town nursing a hangover from partying all month.

"Where are all the people?"--Kate

The main courtyard of the Pope's Palace is transformed into one of the biggest stages of the "In" (official) Festival d'Avignon

Artists of the "Off" festival paste their posters all over the streets of Avignon

After walking briefly around the town, including up to the Jardin des Doms for its best views, we toured the Palais des Papes.  For the 94 years from 1309 to 1403, when Italy was considered too dangerous, the entire headquarters of the Catholic Church moved to Avignon, France.  Throughout their stay, seven popes (plus two anti-popes) built and re-designed a palace with a powerful sense of grandeur and immortality.

Palais des Papes

"It looks like a castle," said anti-castle Kate suspiciously

A brief rest in the shaded gardens of the palace

Don't miss climbing up to the roof's "Great Dignitaries Terrace" (immediately following the immense Chapelle Clementine) for its sweeping views over the palace, the plaza, and Villeneuve les Avignon.  I was trying to enjoy the view of a chiseled male model posing in a nearby window, but Greg rudely distracted me.

Going down "L'escalier d'Honneur" to the Courtyard of Honor

The other popular attraction in Avignon is the Pont d'Avignon (or Pont Saint-Benezet).  To the average foreigner's eye (aka the Webber family), it is what remains of a medieval bridge after repeated floods of the Rhone River.  Everyone else "worldwide" knows it thanks to the famous French children's song from the 15th century:  Sur le Pont d'Avignon.

Pont Saint-Benezet, Avignon

"Sur le Pont d'Avignon"

On the bridge of Avignon

They are dancing, they are dancing

On the bridge of Avignon

They are dancing all around

On the bridge of Avignon, there was no dancing going on

No way was Kate dancing with me

(but I got her to pretend with me underneath where no one could see)

I liked Avignon, and could spend more time there, but our next stopping point was the day's highlight:  the Pont du Gard.  It is a perfectly preserved Roman aqueduct built in ~19 BC to bring water 30 miles to Nimes.  It is the world's second highest standing Roman structure, after Rome's Colosseum, which is six feet taller.  Standing on it, around it, above it and under it ... you just can't help but be impressed.  Those Romans didn't fool around!

Pont du Gard aqueduct

It's not every day you get to picnic under the Pont du Gard!

The river below the Pont du Gard looked so inviting

Our last stop was the city of Nimes.  Its surviving Roman architecture is definitely what puts it on the map, and over-powers anything else the city has to offer.  The two remarkable structures are its arena and Maison Carree.  If it weren't the end of a hot day, and if we hadn't recently visited the Colosseum, we definitely would have toured both buildings.  This arena is actually considered the best-preserved of the Roman world.  During July, it hosts "Le Festival de Nimes", which I googled a dozen times before we left, hoping they would add a rock band the kids are hinged on, but finally gave up.  It also hosts two annual bullfights, thus the Hero statue of a French matador.

Arena of Nimes

Nimes Maison Carree

Even though the Maison Caree is a rectangle, the French named the Roman temple "square house"... apparently it has been there so long (the exact dating is uncertain except that it is from BC) that the correct word didn't even exist in French.  It is said to be the only ancient temple to be completely preserved.  Today it houses a multimedia show that looks interesting, and it has good reviews, but Rick Steves refers to it as tacky.  The line to get in, which is technically just a waiting area during the 22-minute repeating movie, looked uninviting, so Steve won out.  We have been incredibly spoiled, and haven't had to wait in a line to get into anything for over six weeks (since Italy).

Logistics:

- Free parking in Avignon is at Parking de l'Ile Piot (which includes a free shuttle).   Going over the bridge towards the parking, we found a free spot on a side street, and then walked back over the bridge to town.

- At the Palais des Papes, it was worth it to purchase the audio guide.  All the signage is in French, with occasional hand-held posters in English.  Check the website for seasonal tours and activities.

- It costs 4 euro to dance on the Pont d'Avignon, or free to dance underneath (where the dance actually took place, rather than on the narrow bridge).  We went onto the bridge because it was included for 1 euro more with the family entrance to the Palais des Papes.

- Of course you cannot take a picture of the bridge when you are on the bridge.  Remember that when you go to dance.

- To visit the Pont du Gard, ~5km before you arrive, you have to choose which side you will drive to:  Rive Gauche or Rive Droite.  The best access is on the left bank (rive gauche).

Rive Gauche map of Pont du Gard

- Take your Pont du Gard parking ticket with you to the Visitor's Center, where you pay for its validation (flat rate 18 euros).
- Both banks of the river have a panoramic view point but the view from the river level is most impressive.

Day 56 - Hate to Love Marseille

As France's oldest and second-biggest city, Marseille is definitely not one of the storybook villages we have been spending all our time in lately.  Without its cruise port, it wouldn't even make it on the tourist trail.  At one point this month, I made the statement that there would be no love lost if we didn't go.  So imagine my surprise that with each step we took, I was enjoying the city more and more! It is a city bursting with its own rough-around-the-edges charm.

Marseille's Vieux Port

Fort Saint-Nicholas is one of two forts that guard the entrance to the port

Our breakfast along the Old Port

The small Marche aux Poissons (fish market) is held daily on the Quai des Belges on the Old Port.

Everything on this table was still moving

Doesn't get any fresher!

I thought we would cook up some fresh fish for dinner but Greg didn't want to.

Next to the fish market is highly reflective pavilion, reminding me of Chicago's Cloud Gate

We walked around the Old Port and then climbed the hill up to the city's highest point - Notre Dame de la Garde.

Walking up the long staircase leading up to the basilica

Notre Dame de la Garde, dominating the view over the bay, is the symbol of Marseille

The 33-foot statue of the Madonna towers over the basilica and city of Marseille

The basilica's wraparound terraces offer beautiful panoramic views, including this view looking out to Chateau d'If and surrounding Frioul Islands

Saint Veronica wiping the face of Jesus (statue in front of the basilica)

Greg is an awesome photographer!  But not a very good counter.

Back down at sea level, we explored the immediate area of the port, where it feels like a melting pot of varying ethnic backgrounds.

The goods of the stores spilled out onto the narrow side streets

Greg and Kate like the juicy plums, but can't find them at our daily market

We couldn't resist the merry-go-round!

Lunch along a side street just off the port

"It looks like the inside of a frog."--Kate

"Can I have some?"--Chris

Greg enjoyed his plate of muscles.  Kate not so much.

Chris doesn't like when they come with the head still on

In the city where bouillabaisse was born, we wanted to try some for lunch.  Rather than spend 50 euros each, we found a cafe with its cheaper (not as good) version.

Our long, relaxing lunch topped off and completed our great day in Marseille!