Day 30 - North Face Trail and Luzern

If someone moderately adventurous asks me to recommend a hiking trail in Switzerland, I would tell them the North Face Trail.  I loved it!  It was thrilling - it had cows and cow bells - it had soaring heights - it had wild flowers - it was laced with electrified fences - it had a variety of scenery - it was peaceful and not crowded - it had impressive peaks Jungfrau and Schilthorn - it had waterfalls - it had gates to pass through - it had trains and gondolas - it had Hollywood - it kept you on your toes... it was an adventure!  Want to go?

The North Face Trail is a spectacular adventure!

Start at the Lauterbrunnen gondola to get to Grutschalp, then immediately hop onto the train waiting there to take you to Murren.  (Adults CHF 11 for both gondola plus train.)

In Murren, turn left when you exit the station, and then go right at the fork ... you are headed to the funicular to Almendhubel.  (Adults CHF 8.)

High up in the mountain, the town of Murren has no vehicle access.

When you get to Almendhubel, to start the hike it doesn't really matter which way you go because both ways essentially meet in the same place:  Sonnenberg.  (If you follow the signs, the only one that says Sonnenberg says "Pension Sonnenberg".)

Right before you reach the Pension Sonnenberg, there is a sign.  Nothing pointed to our destination (Gimmelwald), so we had to guess by elimination.  We don't want to go back to either Murren or Grutschalp.  We are no way walking all the way up to Schilthorn.  Result:  towards Gimmeln sounds good!

Which way?  We had to guess by elimination.

Next our trail leads us right to the back of a farm/restaurant.  This can't be the right way?!  So we walk through it, and get to a gate.  Luckily I had already read it is ok to go through gates (just make sure you close them).

The trail led right to this restaurant, and then a gate, and then ... cows!

Right on the other side of the gate are 10 cows that we have to walk through.  Kate was a little hesitant to pass them.

The cows stop and look at you.

Kate wasn't in the mood for a hike, and complained that everything looked the same.  Not to me!  Every 5 minutes we were treated to a new view!

You open gates and walk over fences.

Here Greg started spinning around singing "The hills are alive..."

You are treated to classic Swiss views

I thought it was pretty cool that we could see all the way up to the Schilthorn!  It is famous from the 1969 James Bond movie.

The ideal hike took a turn for the worse when we reached the group of huts which make up Schiltalp.
  

I stopped at the signpost to read my notes but everyone else kept going (they are used to me always stopping).  This is where I wanted to take a side trail down so we could see a cool waterfall.  The sign here points to Spielbodenalp which is the way to Sprutz Waterfall.

Since my notes said the trail to the waterfall is steep and slippery (when wet), I followed everyone else straight - so much for the waterfall.

This can't be right!  After passing through Schiltalp, the trail sign to Gimmelwald pointed straight down a steep hill but the trail itself completely disappeared.  

"This is ridiculous - you don't even know where we are going!"

We decided to follow the sign, and headed straight down.

Eventually we were above the town of Gimmelwald.  The trail sign still pointed straight down...

North Face Trail

At the exit to the Gimmelwald gondola I saw a map that I wish I had all along - it would have been quite useful!

Kate liked the gondola back down to the valley - "You just drop!"

Of course now we were at the other side of the valley from Lauterbrunnen.  Rather than take the bus the short 4 km ride (~CHF 3.60 each), I had conveniently moved our car to the gondola station first thing in the morning and jogged home.

After lunch and a break, we drove to Luzern for a nice dinner.

Lowendenkmal - the lion monument in Luzern

The setting, size and detailed carving of the lion monument is impressive.  Having walked through the crowds of Luzern, I wasn't expecting to find such a serene spot.

The Musegg Wall

Luzern still has part of the rampart walls built in 1386.  I spotted them down a side street by the lion monument.

Luzern's Kapellbrucke - Chapel Bridge

Walking across one of the best-preserved wooden bridge in Switzerland.  Two-thirds of it was damaged/destroyed in a fire (1993) since my last visit.  Now there are sprinklers, video cameras, and no smoking signs.

We ate a touristy, very expensive meal along the water

Our view when we arrived late back to Lauterbrunnen

Logistics:
- North Face Trail total time from Valley floor:  3 hours 15 minutes (no lunch break)

- My notes said that this was an easy 4-mile hike.  No way, it was definitely moderate.

- The Gimmelwald gondola ticket booth was closed for lunch 12-2pm so we had to pay cash with the ticket machine.  (Adults CHF 6.20)

- Parking at the Stechelberg gondola station was CHF 6 for seven hours.  (12-24 hours is CHF 10)

My stupid mistake today:

- I didn't know what tickets to buy.  I thought the gondola down was called the "Schilthorn" so I asked for a one-way ticket down.  When she responded "CHF 294" I knew something was wrong - I was apparently asking for a ticket down from the very top of the mountain.  Instead we purchased each ticket as we needed it.

Day 29 - To First from Grindelwald

I have to admit, figuring out Switzerland completely stumped me... what to do here and which places are accessible by rail only.  I started slowly with where I had been before:  Lucerne.  And then I realized Lucerne is only the tip of the iceberg!  It wasn't until after I spent some serious, focused hours that I started piecing together a plan.  If you need some guidance, I suggest starting with Rick Steves - I have no idea why I didn't!

I realized immediately that Switzerland was going to blow our budget in every way - particularly the activities budget.  Everything on the internet leads you to "Jungfrau - the Top of Europe" but at CHF 204 each, that was just not going to happen.

I managed to put together 3 exciting day "hikes".  Which day to do each hike would depend on the weather ... It's not worth CHF 79 each to go up a mountain for zero visibility.

Two of the hikes:  North Face (on right) and Mannlichen-Kleine Scheidegg (on left)

I read to check the weather the night before, but discovered in actuality, Jungfrau.ch updates its weather constantly; one minute the forecast is beautiful sun and literally the next minute it is clouds.  The better guide to the weather are the webcams.

Our weather forecast for the next 3 days is "sunny" - so today I prioritized the most expensive and exciting hike.  We went up to First (pronounced "Fierst").

Since we don't have a Switzerland rail pass, we used the next cheapest method to get there - drive to Grindelwald, which is where you catch the cable car to the top,

The Firstbahn valley station in Grindelwald

We got to the cable car station at about 11am and had to wait 30 minutes in the line to buy tickets.  We bought the First Fun package:  cable car + First Flyer + Trotti bike

Riding the cable car to First

Almost to the top.  On the top left is where you get on the First Flyers

The First station is at 7111 feet

We came up here to do these 2 things:  walk to Bachalpsee lake and take the First Flyers down.

When we got to the top, I climbed a little higher to see the view.  Kate was walking next to me and said, "They go to Sutter with me."  It took several seconds to process what she had said.  The top of First is the last place I expected to run into someone from Folsom.  It turns out, both the parents work with Greg (and are on sabbatical).

From the top, we didn't read the signs, we just followed the flow of people to the lake.

This is the view you are treated to as you walk to Bachalpsee lake

Just a little snow on the trail.  It was 50 degrees but in the sun it felt like the high 70s.

It is a 50 minute walk to Bachalpsee lake.  We took our time.

The trail splits out.  They chose the high one while I stayed on the main one.

On the way, we stopped to talk to a couple (in their late 60s) from Minnesota.  When the man heard we were in our 5th week of traveling, he blurted out, "Are you sick of each other yet?!"

Beautiful!

Bachalpsee Lake

The view from the lake was absolutely amazing!

After our walk to the lake, we went to the First Flyer platform

Four people can go down the flyers at a time.  Greg and I decided to go first.  They put you in the "swing" which is like a sling.  While you wait for everyone to get harnessed in, before you are released, you are essentially pressed up against the release gate.  It can be unnerving for some people (aka Greg) but it adds to the exhilaration of  the experience.

The view as the release gate is opened. 

The First Flyer ride is about 47 seconds long.

Jeremy, Chris and Kate came down after us.

Getting out at the bottom

Everyone really liked the First Flyers (especially Greg) - and said it was better than ziplining.

Next we took the cable car down one station from Schreckfeld to Bort.  Or if you walk, it takes about 50 minutes.  In Bort, we picked up our Trotti bikes.  Essentially they are scooters with bike tires and hand brakes.  While we were getting sorted out, a kid took my scooter and would not get off, and was holding on tight - finders keepers, I guess.  Chris laughed at my attempt to get him off, "Deutsch?  Nein frei."  It worked.  He stole someone else's.

From Bort you scooter back down to the bottom (Grindelwald).  It takes a little less than 30 minutes.

The ride down to Grindelwald.

The trotti bikes have all the potential to be awesome!  We would have like it much better if we had working brakes, a smooth road, and less incline (20 degrees was too much).

Logistics:

- Try to park in the city center lot.  It is across from the cable car to First.  It only has about 20 spots.  Even though the parking sign said all lots had "frei" spots, we didn't find any until the Pfingstegg cable car parking lot - which is really big.  It is a 5 minute walk back to the center of town.  We paid CHF 6 to park for 7 hours (all day is ~12.60).

- There are many discount cards available in Switzerland.  I calculated our best option to be the junior card.  For CHF 30 each it gives children between 6-16 free travel.  

- Allow 2-3 hours roundtrip to walk from the First station to Bachalpsee.

Day 28 - Cailler Factory and La Maison du Gruyere

Waking up to the view and singing birds, sitting on the deck with a cup of coffee...this is heaven.  Today I wanted to take a gondola up into the high country but the forecast was for clouds and rain.  I hope we made a wise decision by delaying our hikes a day, when the forecast is sunny.

Our rainy day plan was to see the Nestle (Cailler) chocolate factory and Gruyere cheese-making factory.  (Note - it didn't rain in Gruyere, but did rain 3 times back in Lauterbrunnen.)

Gruyere (town) is 90 minutes from Lauterbrunnen.  Driving through Switzerland feels like we are suspended in beauty and perfection.

Everywhere you look is eye candy for the nature enthusiast!

Our GPS had us climb a steep, windy road up to 4900 feet.

We started with the chocolate factory because it gets crowded with 2-hour waits.  We got there at opening and had to wait 30 minutes for the next English tour.

The Nestle factory is in a valley

At the entrance to the factory

They are smart to have the tour waiting area be the candy store.  Temptation is overwhelming.  But by the time you finish the all-you-can-eat tasting bar, you never want to touch another piece of chocolate again!  Even Chris, who is our chocolate fanatic, changed his mind after the tour...definitely not buying anything!

The candy store - every flavor chocolate bar!

The tour starts with walking through ~7 rooms, learning about the history of chocolate and how it came to Switzerland.  It is narrated, and kind of like a ride at Epcot.  They pipe in the smell of chocolate, and Kate says, "I can't stop smelling it!"  It smells so good, and we are getting hungry!

The next stage of the tour is audio-guided.  It starts in a room with bins of ingredients.  I see people chewing, so I reach in and taste the almonds.  Then I see someone take a huge handful, and drop them all back into the bin. Gross!  The audio says, "Feel free to touch or taste."

Then we get to watch them make chocolate up close - a candy line essentially created just for the tour.  They pack the chocolate in red, green and blue aluminum foil.  The audio says, "They all taste the same so we can't explain why red is the most popular."  Kate takes red from the sample tray.

We watch them make chocolate candies - and then we taste them!

You can stay and eat as much as you want - they just request that you take none of the chocolate with you.  Practical Chris questions if maybe we should have skipped the tour, and just bought chocolates to taste.  No ... where is the fun in that?!

In the final tasting room, you get to sample 8 different kinds of chocolate.  I was almost done - just three left - when I started breaking out in a sweat.  (Not kidding.)  Failure...we couldn't get through them all.  Can't say we didn't try!

The free tasting room

"I am going to be a little sick of chocolate after this."--Kate

Gruyere Chateau and Cheese Factory are just two miles from Cailler.  We started with the chateau because when we went to the cheese factory, the lady warned us that currently the only thing to do was the "museum" (not worth the pricey admission)  - the factory only has activity at 1pm and 2:15pm.

Apparently Kate's castle limit is four ... with one (?) castle in California, who knew?!  She did not want to go to the one at Gruyere.  (From here on out I should just call them "chateau's", maybe she won't notice.)  I can't say if it was worth the price of admission, but for me it was worth a self-guided visit!

The medieval town of Gruyere is quite quaint!

If you are an Alien fan, go into the HR Giger museum at the entrance to the castle.  Or at least check out the free bar - it is pretty cool!  (Pictures only allowed for customers.)

The castle's ramparts 

The castle's gardens

Then back to the cheese factory.  Since the cheese making process involves a lot of sitting around and aging, a cheese factory may not be the most exciting experience.

Cheese cellar at La Maison du Gruyere

In the museum, a cow talks you through the process.  We get free samples of cheese, too...these we can take away with us.

If you visit at 1pm, you can watch a worker stir the cheese milk.

On our way home, we stopped at a lake because its description is:  "Incredibly blue, clear lake set in the forest with a jagged Alpine horizon...a photographer's dream"  I wish I could show you how beautiful it is, but sadly we didn't get in.  It closes at 5pm.  We arrived at 3:45pm to a sign that said today it closes at 4pm for a private event.  Apparently in Switzerland they round time to the nearest hour.  If you are dying to pay your fee to get in, and drive all the way there to gamble whether or not they are open, then google Blausee Lake.

Our visit to Gruyere inspired us to try fondue for dinner.  I didn't have the correct ingredients - just a bunch of gruyere cheese - so doctored it up with what I had:  beer, vodka and pepper.  Absolutely delicious and devoured!  I love "The Melting Pot" but this fondue was better than anything I have had before!

Yummy fondue!