Day 35 - Carcassonne and Aix-en-Provence

We left the Dordogne on the same twisty roads we entered it on.  Arriving to the tolled highway was a bittersweet.

Our pit stop for lunch looked so much like Camelot that they filmed Kevin Costner's Robin Hood there.  It is a good thing Carcassonne is a walled city and not a castle since the Webber's are done with castles!  Therefore, it earned a thumbs up.  Instead of exploring it, we basically walked through from the main gate - Porte Narbonnaise - to the other side.

Carcassonne

Porte Narbonnaise

 You are not supposed to miss walking the "lists" (outer double walls) but the heat made that an unpleasant option.

We left through Porte d'Aude

Our destination was Aix-en-Provence, where we have rented an apartment for the month.  It is an ancient city just above the Mediterranean in Southern France.  We chose it to sample the good life in a central location that offers countless - optional - day trips.

Aix-en-Provence, France

I am so excited to be in Aix - in one place for so long!  I can't wait to not live out of an overstuffed suitcase!  We were able to finally empty out our car trunk's collected assortment.  We will get to go grocery shopping and buy whatever we want without having to haul it or worry about refrigeration.  We get to spread out and call it home.  We get to assimilate and explore Aix!  I get to have coffee when I wake up instead of when the cafe opens.  This is awesome!

The winning feature of our apartment is its terrace, which towers five stories high over the center of the old city.  Only the church steeples are taller.  While the immediate view over rooftops isn't spectacular, the terrace is:

- large, peaceful and private

- rare, with hardly any other balconies in sight

- a relaxing retreat!

Terrace view over Aix rooftops.  In the distance is the peak of Mont Sainte-Victoire - the mountain Cezanne painted a number of times

The first of many dinners on the terrace

Now that we are "living" in Aix, the blog posts will not necessarily be daily.

Logistics:

- Europe's "chip and pin" credit card:  Rick Steves directed us to Andrews Credit Union for a real "chip and pin" credit card to use in Europe (we only had chip and sign cards).  Until today, the Andrews card has been nothing special and has required a signature for every use.  For some reason, even though we knew better, today on a whim Greg decided to try the credit card only toll booth.  Thankfully he didn't do it at the toll station that had 20 minutes of cars waiting behind us!  Of course the toll machine rejected our chip and sign card ("not valid on this network").  Panic began to creep in as we realized there is no way to eject the toll ticket from the machine.  In desperation, Greg tried the Andrew's chip and pin card, and it actually worked!  

- Our apartment is available on Homeaway (939964) from owner Fabienne Lacourty. During the high season, it is only available for rentals Saturday through Saturday.

Day 34 - Canoeing on the Dordogne River

Kayaking down the Dordogne River was an ideal way to cool off when it is 104 degrees!  All along the Dordogne River are places to rent canoes.  Instead of leaving from our village, which had some negative reviews and is more expensive, we went to the next village over and rented with Canoe Dordogne in La Roque-Gageac.  (They have an informative website and email.)

Canoe Dordogne in La Roque-Gageac

On Friday mornings La Roque-Gageac has a small outdoor market (marche) with about 20 booths: fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, roasted chicken, walnut goods (local product), foie gras, and fabrics.  While we waited for our 11am bus ride up the river, we picked up some sweet strawberries and a tablecloth (to use as a picnic blanket).

The canoe company drove us to Carsac, where we chose to start our adventure.  It is a good thing they told us we had all day because we took our time and didn't finish the 16-km route until 5pm.  It felt like we were rowing almost the entire time so I am perplexed at how everyone passed us, even the older folks!

Jeremy and Chris had single kayaks

Jeremy and Chris made rowing look effortless, and spent most of the time kicking back, enjoying the refreshing ride.  The canoe seemed to be more work, which was especially noticeable when the current dissipated.

Greg and I shared a canoe with Kate.  We couldn't stop making crocodile jokes.

We stopped at a beach to cool down in the water just after Chateau de Montfort.  

The best view of Chateau de Montfort is looking back after you pass it.

They are all trying to figure out how to plunge into the cold water.

I counted down for Chris and Jeremy, who together planked backwards into the water.   

Kate and Greg had their own method of getting in - Kate squatted and Greg sat, slowly inching deeper.  Both made hilarious faces.  Both have forbidden me to post pictures.  I didn't go in.

In the heat with no access to ice, a picnic was really not an option for us.  We stopped for a relaxing lunch at the river-side snack bar in Vitrac.  Considering this was one of the only food stops, it had a surprising variety of options at fair prices.

I swear after Vitrac, the current disappeared and the wind picked up - or maybe the heat and our full bellies slowed us down.  No current meant more bugs.  We looked for another swimming beach - requiring slightly moving water and shade.  

The consensus was that kayaking was a great way to spend our day.  In hindsight, we didn't get to swim enough.  When you ask Chris and Jeremy about it, together they will chime in their lesson of the day:  Don't listen to mom when she says you don't need sunscreen on your legs!  Yeah, whatever ... they were sunbathing all day.  The canoe folk were working and didn't have time to get burned!

For dinner we drove to Sarlat.  Its description won me over: "a beautiful town carved from sandstone with winding cobbled streets and passageways that are perfect to explore on foot."  Upon arriving, I was afraid we had the wrong town.  We parked at the pedestrian area which at first glance is rather plain.  It wasn't until we turned down one of the alleys that I fell in love.  It really was beautiful!  I wished the stores weren't closed and we had more time there; Greg and I are hoping our next town is more like this!

Sarlat

Jeremy asked to have hamburgers or hot dogs to celebrate the Fourth of July so when I saw that the #1 restaurant on tripadvisor was a hamburger joint, I knew I had to look no further (even though it was only July 3).  Les Tontons - the burgers, the owner, and the cook - are likely the other reason we enjoyed Sarlat so much!  When we walked up, we discovered there were only three tiny - and taken - bar tables to eat on.  We were in no hurry, but we were not next in line.  I offered to come back but the owner said he would be out of patties.  He kept us "fresh" with a supply of cold drinks until our table and food were ready.  And then he promptly ran out of his daily supply of fresh meat!  Our burgers, fries, and assortment of special sauces are the best in France.  If not, then combination of the burgers, the owner and cook surely make it so! 

"Fromage!"  "Good burger for French?"  -- Les Tontons owner and cook

Logistics:

- Canoe down the Dordogne River www.canoesdordogne.fr

- Rental rates are per person and charged by the distance you go.  We paid 19 euro (adults) to go from Carsac to La Roque-Gageac.

- The rate included all gear (life jacket, paddle, and waterproof container) and transportation.  "Closed shoes" (not flip flops) are required.

Day 33 - Castelnaud and Beynac, Dordogne

The drive between Rocamadour and where we are staying for two nights along the Dordogne River was 90 minutes.  It is amazing how much two seats in the same car can have completely different views.

Driver's view:  stressful, back-country, single lane, windy roads where you don't know if a car is coming the other way.

Passenger's view:  delightful, picturesque, unspoiled countryside and romantic, quaint villages

Perhaps both views are accurate but there is actually a name for the passenger's view: "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France" - The Most Beautiful Villages of France.

One of the many one-street villages we drove through

In between the villages are fields

Lots of cheerful sunflower fields!

This area of France is also known for its many caves.  Webber popular vote was "no caves".  It was also no castles, but we went anyway - to Chateau de Castelnaud - because it has consistent "best castle" reviews.

Chateau de Castelnaud

We parked down in the village and walked up to the castle. 

Once you get inside the castle, you continue to spiral up at least four  flights of stairs; there are many levels at this castle!

The rooms display warfare from the Middle Ages, and the films do a great job telling about the weapons (English subtitles).

It was interesting to learn the details about Medieval weapons

Finally at the top - standing next to a trebuchet

The village where we are staying has a castle as well - which you can see down the river from Castelnaud.

We spent the rest of the afternoon chilling in our icy room in Beynac - a refreshing option when it is 100 degrees!

Beynac-et-Cazenac

Then we went to Domme for dinner.  It is an old bastide (fortified town) high on a hill surrounded by walls.

Domme is known for its view over the valley

Domme's view is best from its Belvedere de la Barre

90% of France's foie gras (goose liver) is produced in the Dordogne so it is sold everywhere here

La Roque-Gageac is one of the most photographed places in south-western France.  We stopped for ice cream and a closer view.

After returning from dinner, Greg and I walked all the way up to the top of Beynac to get a closer look at its castle and view.

Beynac Castle

When you walk all the way to the top of the town, past the castle and cemetery, you are treated to this view.  I think it is the best one yet!

Logistics:
- Castelnaud supposedly has afternoon crowds.  It was fairly empty when we got there at 10am.  I can't imagine why anyone would want to visit in the 100 degree heat of the afternoon.

Day 32 - Rocamadour, France

Our day started early with a very long drive to Rocamadour in south-western France.

Clinging to the rocky cliffs, Rocamadour has been a holy site and pilgrimage destination for 1000 years.

Getting close to Rocamadour, I warned Greg that the GPS might tell us to drive somewhere that looks like cars are not allowed.

"I'm supposed to drive through there?"

Sure enough, she tells us to drive through the narrow gate to La Cite Medievale.  It was 5pm and what was left of the tourist crowd stared at us like we were driving on the sidewalk!  The hotel owner and 100 degrees greeted us with a warm welcome!

A very relieved driver

We are staying along La Cite Medievale - the pedestrian street lined with shops and restaurants.

After dinner Greg and I explored the Cite Relgieuse.

The Grand Escalier is 223 holy steps up from La Cite to the sanctuaries.

Greg liked that it was built into the side of the mountain.  Although the churches were closed, we were able to walk around and see the rusty Sword of Rolan stuck in the side of the mountain and the tomb where the body of St. Amadour (reputed to be Zaccheus) was found in 1166.

Judging from the size of his tomb, Zaccheus was not a wee little man.

The sword of Charlemagne's nephew.  Religious sites draw more pilgrims if they have multiple miracles ... Roland was about to die in battle.  Not wanting his sword to fall into enemy hands, he hurled it from the far south of France and voila ... it landed here!

A floodlit Rocamadour

After I returned from my walk to view Rocamadour from the opposite side of the narrow valley, Jeremy was still up and waiting for me.  He wanted to see the Sanctuaries too, so I went back out with him.  Instinctively, he reached for his phone to take a picture.  "Oh, it doesn't look as good on my phone as it does with my eyes."  He thought it was pretty cool that we were spending the night here.

This is the view that Jeremy couldn't capture on his phone.

Thoughts on Switzerland

- Switzerland was brilliant; I loved everything about it. I'll go out on a limb, and even call it my favorite so far. I was obsessed with the views, and couldn't get enough of them. I was thrilled with how perfect our flat and town were for us!

- Chris liked all the cows. I agree, and will miss the sound of bells clanging on the hillsides.

- Chris liked the alpine scenery and chalets. He also liked having another country where he could understand the language.

- We were incredibly fortunate to have beautiful weather.

- Sticker Shock: the only thing I did not like about Switzerland was the inflated cost of everything. Most things cost up to twice what we have been paying. For example, cereal, soda, beer and tortillas were all $6 each (USD). I was grateful for my insight to buy all of our groceries in Germany, and not have to eat out. (Although Greg is still annoyed with the grocery expedition.) Having a kitchen - and a table with an amazing view - allowed us to avoid the excessive costs, making all the difference in our stay. We did not shop at all and spent as little money as possible - except on activities. It was slightly inconvenient to deal with a currency other than euros, but credit was accepted almost everywhere.

Day 31 - Mannlichen - Kleine Scheidegg Trail

Today we went on Rick Steves' favorite hike: the Mannlichen - Kleine Scheidegg trail.  It is a perfect package: grand rewards for little output - it is easy.  It wouldn't be my first recommendation!  But let's let Rick keep sending the crowds there!

Our journey started at the Lauterbrunnen train station and took five hours round trip (included a long break for lunch).

We took the train from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen (Wengen is inaccessible by car) (adults CHF 6.80) and then the gondola to Mannlichen (adults CHF 22).

View down to Lauterbrunnen valley from train window

We went up the gondola with a large group of Americans who thought it was funny to rock the gondola and joke about the cable breaking.  It's not funny.

At the top, rather than start the trail right away, we turned left for the "King of the Mountain" view. It is 15 minutes straight up, and 100% worth it!

King of the Mountain view from top of Mannlichen

Looking down the 15-minute trail to the Mannlichen cable car station.  You can see the trail to Kleine Scheidegg curving left around the mountain.

The Mannlichen - Kleine Scheidegg trail is a 2 -1/2 mile flat, gravel road.  

The unchanging view to your left for the entire 1-hour walk is of the Grindelwald valley.

Peaks Monch and Jungfrau tower over the Kleine Scheidegg train station

I misread my notes. We were supposed to stop along the way at one of the many benches for a picnic lunch - like everyone else was doing (per Rick Steves' advice).  When we got to the end of the trail, there was nowhere to have a picnic.  Kleine Scheidegg is the train station hub that takes you either up to the Top of Europe (Jungraujoch) or back down the mountain.  It has several places to buy a sit-down meal or drink.

Lunch outside the train station - you can see our view reflected in the window behind us.

The view of Jungfraujoch was the second highlight of the hike.

Curiosity drove the next decision:  hike down to the Wengernalp train station.  "30 minutes of gorgeous views" is an exaggeration Rick! Just as it started getting good, we got to the train station.  And there was no way I was going to coax my aching body or anyone else's to continue walking down!

The trail to the Wengernalp station was only a slight improvement over the last hour of walking.  

Watching the para gliders jump out of the helicopter, Greg observed out loud what I was thinking: in pictures you don't realize how fast they free fall!  I entertained not missing out on the para gliding opportunity until I discovered its cost:  CHF 450.

Watching people drop out of helicopters.

We took the train from the Wengernalp station all the way back down to Lauterbrunnen.  It was slow and hot.

In the evening we packed up our 5-day stay and followed the strict rules for exiting the flat.  The Switzerland "tax" for small trash bags is CHF 3.  We would be fined CHF 35 if we put any recycling in it.  We walked our glass and plastic into town to the two recycling bins - which are not conveniently in the same location.

Logistics:
- The cost of the train ticket back down the mountain to Lauterbrunnen depends where you catch it.  Kleine Scheidegg to Lauterbrunnen is adult CHF 29.80.

Today's stupid mistake:  Today it was my intention to let my international plan lapse for a few days.  With AT&T I can receive texts for free.  I had no idea it would cost over $100 to receive 5 picture texts.  By activating the plan again, the charges were removed.