Monday, June 15, 2015

Day 15 - Palazzo Ducale in Venice

I was up at 5am again to wander the island but this time I am not alone. In addition to the all-nighters, there are no less than ten photographers in St. Mark's Square...I guess we had the same idea. Eventually all I can think about is how badly I want and need a cappuccino, but there is no sign of an open cafe anywhere. I want to explore the quiet "streets" but I don't have the mental energy at the moment to handle finding my way through the maze. Just as desperation begins to set in, at 6:45 I find an open door.
Rialto Bridge


By the time the kids get up, the thunder storm is here. Jackie, yesterday's tour guide, told us about the flood siren (imagine air raid) that goes off when St. Mark's will flood at high tide. I totally assumed she was talking about the Acqua Alta season between October and April, so was rather surprised when it went off this morning! The alarm was followed by one beep which means the water will be 10 cm above sea level.

Jeremy, who hasn't left the apartment since we arrived yesterday, still does not want to leave. "No one wants to go out in this rain, mom."
Walking in the rain

The Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge Palace was well done. They seem to care about keeping it interesting, and have changed it since our last visit. The entire tour is through areas that the general public doesn't get to see. We like the information our orange-haired, older guide gave us - just not her delivery style. Each time we stopped in one of the ~15 rooms she would ask, "Anymore?" to each person who entered the room until all 20 people were there. She definitely gave us a feeling for the small space in the prison cells...not only did she cram all of us into them, she kept saying "closer, closer" until we were touching like sardines.
Courtyard inside the Doge Palace

After the tour we had lunch on Sandwich Row - just over the Bridge of Sighs. A seat, delicious sandwich, and beer are all surprisingly affordable.
Lunch at Birreria Forst

Then all but Jeremy went on the hunt for Da Nico gelato. It must taste pretty good because Kate really liked it and didn't complain about all the walking to get there. It is on the way towards the cruise ships along the Zattere. It is a nice area of Venice because it is off the main thoroughfare yet you still have all the beauty. I was happy we stumbled across the picturesque gondola boatyard (Squero di San Trovaso).
Gondola boatyard


Every view is beautiful!

When the rain started up again, everyone went home and Jeremy came out with me. "I like the rain," he said when I asked him if he likes Venice. It came down so hard that even people with umbrellas were looking for cover under awnings. We strolled arm-in-arm and shopped.

After dinner it was high tide so Greg and I went to check out flooded St. Mark's Square. I am glad we did. The air was thick with giddy excitement. As if St. Mark's Square isn't magical enough at night, this was sheer delight. There were three types of people: those who lined up on the edge of the water not daring to go any further, those who bought disposable booties (like hair nets for shoes), and those who walked right in. As we walked right in to the seven inches of water, Jackie's words repeated in my head, "Don't touch the water...don't touch the water..." No matter... Walking hand in hand, it does not get any better than this.
The barricade keeps the water out of the cafe



Logistics:
- At the Palazzo Ducale even though we reserved our tour in advance, we still had to wait in the ticket line instead of using the reserved ticket line. We can't make any sense of this. Maybe that is why the email said to arrive an hour before.